Pascuser wrote on Jun 21st, 2012 at 9:51am:. . . But when reading again, I think I was wrong: you make the whole study only with ONE picture and compute intensity from one pixel relatively to adjacent pixel?
Could you please explain clearly what you did, because I tried many times to do something but it is impossible to do if I don't know what you did excatly.
What differencies between which pixels? I can write a script too, but I don't know what you did precisely. Thank you for your answer.
Pascuser,
I am happy to hear from someone interested in experimenting with this fascinating technology and I hope more will join us. Please feel free to ask more questions and I'll do my best to answer.
Your are correct about using only one picture, but in my early work I computed the intensity relative to an arbitrary, constant pixel value, sometimes using a value of 256. In order for this to work it is assumed that:
1. The white background light intensity is perfectly uniform or very nearly perfect.
2. AND that none of the pixel values in the phantom area of the photo exceed 255.
The method I first used to obtain the phantom leaf images used a single photo. With this method the actual pixel value in the missing leaf area of the photo was subtracted from an arbitrary, fixed value (often 256) to yield a new value. This new valve was then used in pseudo coloring to bring out the phantom leaf structure in the image.
For example for an 8 bit per channel, RGB (standard JPG file format.) image I chose 256 as the arbitrary value. My filter algorithm was then:
New Value = 256 - Actual Pixel Value
The New Value was then used to select a pseudo color from a crude Lookup Table to generate the final image. It took quite a bit of experimenting with pseudo color selections to make the phantom leaf structure clearly visible. The picture at the bottom of the page at
http://afterlife-knowledge.com/phanpics.html was one of the better of these pseudo color selections. The vein structure turned out to be dark relative to the surrounding areas.
It is important to understand how critical it is that assumption number 1 above be true in order to obtain phantom leaf structure images. Ideally, if you took a photo of just the white background, without any leaf, the intensity of EVERY pixel in that image would be EXACTLY the same value as all other pixels of that pixel color. In other words in an RGB image every red pixel would be the same value as all other red pixels. Green pixel values can be different from the red or blue RGB image values, but all green pixels would, ideally be the same value. Same goes for the blue pixel values in an RGB image of just the white background without any leaf.
To see how uniform my white background was in my early work I used my filter algorithm to generate a pseudo colored image for each of the RGB pixel colors. In this way I could verify that my photos later taken with the leaf met that first assumption above. Then, since the background is uniform intensity I could use an arbitrary value (like 256) in the pseudo coloring of the phantom images. In those images I was seeing the differences in pixel intensity values that the phantom leaf structure imposed over the previously uniform background intensity.
In practice I found it impossible to create an absolutely perfect, uniform intensity background. But I didn't start seeing the phantom leaf structures in the pseudo colored images until the white background was pretty close to perfectly uniform. Probably in the order of (I am guess estimating here) a total range of 5 (out of 256). The more you can do to make your white background pixel intensity (in an image without the leaf as a test photo) perfectly uniform the better your chances of getting good phantom leaf photos.
I hope that answers your questions. If not please feel free to ask more.
In my present work I am trying a different approach that uses three photos, but I recommend that experimenters start with the single photo method as it helps you learn about other factors. For example, how do you chose a leaf? How soon must the picture be taken after picking? Depth of field settings? Illumination light frequencies?
The three photo method is an attempt eliminate the need for a near perfectly uniform background. The camera must not move AT ALL when taking Photo#2 and #3 using this three photo method. Use a cable release, or ideally, a remote electronic trigger to trigger the shutter. If you use your finger to push the camera shutter button the camera will move enough to make this method not work! Also you MUST lock the aperture, shutter speed and focus to the same place for all three pictures.
Photo #1.
A photo is first taken of the original, intact leaf without a portion removed. This is a reference photo used later to visually compare the actual physical leaf structure to any phantom leaf structure obtained from the next two photos. The leaf in this photo must be positioned in the same location (relative to the camera and white background) as it will be in the next photo, that is, Photo #2. Focus on the leaf, lock that focus, select an appropriate aperture and shutter speed and lock those so they are the same for all three photos. This method will not work if you fail to do this!
Photo #2
Cut way a portion of the leaf quickly and carefully. Then take photo #2 without moving the leaf from its location relative to the camera and background.
Photo #3
Remove the entire leaf from its location so that it will not be seen in this photo. Drop it on the ground is the easiest. Then quickly take photo #3. This is an image of just the background.
The algorithm for pseudo coloring in this method obtains the New Value by subtracting the pixel values of Photo#2 from Photo#3. Since the actual background is the same in both images this subtraction removes the background and any non-uniformity in that background. It gives a result that is only the background difference induced by the phantom leaf structure. The background doesn't need to be perfectly uniform because this method subtracts the background from the resulting image. All that is left to do is to pseudo color that resulting image and visually compare it to Photo#1.
What is taking me so long at this point is that I am trying to do this using 16 bit per channel RAW image files (converted to TIF files) instead of 8 bit per channel JPG files for greater resolution. There are camera sensor noise issues to deal with as well as writing filter programs to handle these high resolution RAW or TIF images. I would suggest experimenters use JPG format images (perhaps super fine resolution JPG) if you attempt this method. Also be careful that your subtraction of the two images does not result in a negative number! Those negative number results are automatically set to zero making them useless. Little details like that can prevent obtaining phantom leaf images. Details, details.
Well, like I said at the beginning, I hope this helps answer your questions and I hope more experimenters will join in.
Until there are more questions, or I have some great results to share . . .
Good luck!!
Bruce